City Boy to the bone
It’s good to be back in the city. To breathe in the thick familiar air of people living close together. To walk the paved street valleys between the close buildings. To casually bump into people I know while strolling past the Gingerbread House. To simply amble the streets and watch the people as they pass. To follow the face of some good-looking girl as she moves unawares through a crowd. To share in the unspoken history of over 800 years of people living together.
I just don’t think I could ever live in the countryside. Especially somewhere as remote as Corca Dhuibhne – or the Dingle Peninsula as most of you may know it. Don’t get me wrong, I love the place. It’s the most beautiful part of Ireland. No argument! The mountains that swoop to the sea, or sweep up from it like jutted rocky waves. On a sunny day, the grass is greener than I’ve ever seen and the shadows of calm white clouds lazily flow like liquid across the stony hillsides, and the water in the little coves and beaches is as blue/green as anything you’ll see in a Caribbean holiday brochure. In the summer months, fuchsias crowd the hedges on the winding roadsides, filling them with a riot of pink/purple. It really reminds a city boy like me of the might and fragility of nature. And life moves even slower there than it does in Cork, if that could be possible. Every local has a story in them and about fifty ways to tell it. If I’ve done my job right, it should sound like Utopia to you. So why wouldn’t anyone want to spend the rest of his or her days there?
Part of me would, and maybe when I’m older, should I reach that certain age, I might up and move down there to wile away the rest of my days. But not now, oh no. A week was hard enough. One never considers how dependent one is on modern conveniences until most of them are taken away. As soon as I’d left Dingle and was over the mountains to the western half of the peninsula, Meteor abandoned me to the wilds of West Kerry. If not for Elaine and her Vodafone, I may have lost it completely. Well…ok, that’s perhaps a bit of an exaggeration, I’ll grant you; but I did feel very disconnected for much of the time. I missed just being able to start up random conversations with friends. It’s a comfort to know that most of you are just a text away, and when that comfort is taken away, one can be left feeling quite alone. I wasn’t too alone of course, I did have Elaine to annoy and gently wind up for my amusement. But still, you get my point.
What’s as bad was that the closest thing to proper civilisation – Dingle – was a
n almost 10 minute taxi drive away. Even then, for all its charm and some interesting little shops (check out Café Liteartha), within twenty minutes one can have walked around the whole town. After you’ve explored all the shops worth exploring, there’s little else to do but wander around and pick out the tourists. While one can argue the same about Cork much of the time, I like walking around the city and just watching the people or immersing myself in my thoughts and letting my legs take me where they want to go. And there is always the chance, of course, that you’ll bump into someone, though that can be a bad thing as much as a good one.
The thing about the countryside is that it takes so damn long to get anywhere. In the morning, Elaine and I would have to cycle 2 miles to the hall in which the classes were held and then 2 miles back for lunch. And man, was that cycle back a tough one! I’m not even sure why, it just always was. Always. If something else was happening at the hall during the day, it was another 2 miles there and 2 miles back. There’s just so much open empty space in the countryside, it’s just not natural I tell ya! And what’s with all the animals? The so-called “fresh air” seemed perpetually filled with scent of distinctly un-house broken creatures. Give me the pungent whiff hops from the Beamish and Crawford Brewery any day.
Of course, having said all that, my self-imposed (though not entirely intentional) severing from the rest of civilisation did get the creative juices flowing a little. If I’d had a computer and internet access (yet more things I sorely missed), this blog would certainly have MANY more entries in it by now. Unfortunately (for me anyway, maybe not for you, I don’t know) I’ve forgotten much of what I wanted to write about while down there, so I’m pretty much just working from memory now and the few pages I jotted down one particularly wet day.
So maybe those hermits of old had it right, in that a certain amount of escape from the modern world is good for the soul. I will of course return down there again, this year even, because I do love the place dearly. But don’t ask me to live there!
I just don’t think I could ever live in the countryside. Especially somewhere as remote as Corca Dhuibhne – or the Dingle Peninsula as most of you may know it. Don’t get me wrong, I love the place. It’s the most beautiful part of Ireland. No argument! The mountains that swoop to the sea, or sweep up from it like jutted rocky waves. On a sunny day, the grass is greener than I’ve ever seen and the shadows of calm white clouds lazily flow like liquid across the stony hillsides, and the water in the little coves and beaches is as blue/green as anything you’ll see in a Caribbean holiday brochure. In the summer months, fuchsias crowd the hedges on the winding roadsides, filling them with a riot of pink/purple. It really reminds a city boy like me of the might and fragility of nature. And life moves even slower there than it does in Cork, if that could be possible. Every local has a story in them and about fifty ways to tell it. If I’ve done my job right, it should sound like Utopia to you. So why wouldn’t anyone want to spend the rest of his or her days there?
Part of me would, and maybe when I’m older, should I reach that certain age, I might up and move down there to wile away the rest of my days. But not now, oh no. A week was hard enough. One never considers how dependent one is on modern conveniences until most of them are taken away. As soon as I’d left Dingle and was over the mountains to the western half of the peninsula, Meteor abandoned me to the wilds of West Kerry. If not for Elaine and her Vodafone, I may have lost it completely. Well…ok, that’s perhaps a bit of an exaggeration, I’ll grant you; but I did feel very disconnected for much of the time. I missed just being able to start up random conversations with friends. It’s a comfort to know that most of you are just a text away, and when that comfort is taken away, one can be left feeling quite alone. I wasn’t too alone of course, I did have Elaine to annoy and gently wind up for my amusement. But still, you get my point.
What’s as bad was that the closest thing to proper civilisation – Dingle – was a
n almost 10 minute taxi drive away. Even then, for all its charm and some interesting little shops (check out Café Liteartha), within twenty minutes one can have walked around the whole town. After you’ve explored all the shops worth exploring, there’s little else to do but wander around and pick out the tourists. While one can argue the same about Cork much of the time, I like walking around the city and just watching the people or immersing myself in my thoughts and letting my legs take me where they want to go. And there is always the chance, of course, that you’ll bump into someone, though that can be a bad thing as much as a good one.
The thing about the countryside is that it takes so damn long to get anywhere. In the morning, Elaine and I would have to cycle 2 miles to the hall in which the classes were held and then 2 miles back for lunch. And man, was that cycle back a tough one! I’m not even sure why, it just always was. Always. If something else was happening at the hall during the day, it was another 2 miles there and 2 miles back. There’s just so much open empty space in the countryside, it’s just not natural I tell ya! And what’s with all the animals? The so-called “fresh air” seemed perpetually filled with scent of distinctly un-house broken creatures. Give me the pungent whiff hops from the Beamish and Crawford Brewery any day.
Of course, having said all that, my self-imposed (though not entirely intentional) severing from the rest of civilisation did get the creative juices flowing a little. If I’d had a computer and internet access (yet more things I sorely missed), this blog would certainly have MANY more entries in it by now. Unfortunately (for me anyway, maybe not for you, I don’t know) I’ve forgotten much of what I wanted to write about while down there, so I’m pretty much just working from memory now and the few pages I jotted down one particularly wet day.
So maybe those hermits of old had it right, in that a certain amount of escape from the modern world is good for the soul. I will of course return down there again, this year even, because I do love the place dearly. But don’t ask me to live there!


